This first started with a 4-5 hour small bus journey to Hat Yai. The journey was nothing memorable, lots of bumps and lots of snack stops...for the driver. Upon entering Thailand through a surprisingly easy border and customs check (the man prodded my bag, unzipped and immediately re-zipped someone elses) i could sense i was going to like the country. Our bus stopped inside Hat Yai for us to change to another bus. While waiting some other people got picked up for their journey in a new Mercedes comfort-mobile so my hopes were high coming off of a KIA. These hopes were quickly extinguished as a no brand 'thing' pulled up and the driver yelled 'Krabi'. Another 5 hours of Evil Kinevil's idol driving and we finally arrived in Krabi. The one thing the driver did do well was take us to a place where we could buy our boat tickets for the next day and set up some accomodation for the night, which turned out to be nice enough for comfort. Our brief night in Krabi consisted of going for a meal and a walk. The meal was excellent (price included) and it was quickly apparant that the southern Thai people are fairly different from those we had encountered before. Much friendlier, chattier and genuinly interested in you as opposed to just your money.
The next morning we got a tuk tuk to the pier to get our boat. This was by far the most terrifying thing i have ever had to do. As we were the first ones on board we were sitting downstairs right at the front. Rough seas and a boat that was literally separating and falling apart do not mix well, every wave the boat took i was sure i would end up in the water. 2 hours of clutching my seat went by like 2 years, finally and thankfully though we arrived in Ko Phi Phi and began the ascent to our pre booked 7 pound a night accomodation (we thought we would splash out on the digs). Ingphu viewpoint was amazing, the service was incredibly friendly and greatly helpful with no tip expectation. Also to its advantage is its location on the island, as it is higher up it is a small trek but much quieter. The rest of the tourists on this island seemed to be what i would usually desribe as goons, i certainly did not come this far to hear only American, Australian and English people let alone hear them talking about how great beer and weed is.
From where we were in the quiet Ko Phi Phi is very relaxing, its beauty and views offered a much needed rest. It seems like the kind of island that could be very inspirational but is also so relaxing you don't really want to do anything especially be inspired.
After 2 days here we were ready to get back into the thick of it - the mainland. Naturally apprehensive about the boat ride back to Krabi i was mentally prepared for the worst. Calm waters were just what i needed, i lay out on the deck of the boat for the 2 hour journey back. Once back we got another tuk tuk to a bus/cafe place. We picked up sleeper train tickets from Surat Thani and waited to get a bus up there. The bus took us to the middle of nowhere and dropped us off where someone gave us each a sticker and told us to wait for another bus. An hour and a half later another bus arrived to pick us up. Once at Surat Thani train station we found out the train was delayed, not to worry it was 9 o'clock so we were ready for some dinner. The options at the station were some unknown meat where the woman serving was having her daughter go through her hair for lice or what i luckily spied, a toastie stall! Unfortunately my toastie options were pineapple jam, strawberry jam and the much loved 'red' flavour jam. I went for pineapple. The sleeper train was cool, although i couldn't sleep i was comfortable lying in my moving bed.
Our first experience with Bangkok was brief. Approximately 7 minutes in the train station for the whole of it, our next mode of transport a train north. This as not so much a train as it was a sweat box filled with annoyances. To name but one for the most of the 2.5 hour journey the man standing next to my seat insisted on getting his boaby as close to my shoulder as possible. Matt joked that he had a boner. I did not laugh.
We finally arrived in Ayanthaya, one of several ancient city's. We sought accomodation in 'Tony's Place'. This should have just been called 'Gay Tony's' due to the many flamboyant staff members. The manager looked disappointed when i specified a twin room instead of his offer of a double.
We spent 2 great days here discovering ancient ruins and a hatred for the tuk tuk drivers. We cycled around one afternoon which feels great with the breeze but as soon as you stop moving you realise how disgustingly drenched in sweat you actually are.
After our 2 days it was time to head to the dreaded Bangkok (we had met various people with nothing good to say about it). I thought Bangkok was great - not too busy for a big city and lots of amazing things to see and do. We stayed on the heavy backpacker oriented Khao San Road. This is the most annoying street in the world as it is filled with nothing but hassle from suit sellers, tuk tuk drivers, naughty masseurs and more. There is almost a constant asking of 'where going?' They do not always accept polite no thank you's so we had to get creative.
Tuk Tuk Driver: 'Oh where going eh?'
Me: 'Punani Town'
Tuk Tuk Driver: 'Oh where? Oh it closed today'.
Me: 'Tee hee'.
Lots of people claim to help by initially telling you something vaguely helpful or showing you something on your map. However, they then claim that everything you want to do is closed and they will take you to something better. How so many randomers know about something better than the King's former residence, the Grand Palace and a 40 foot reclining Buddha is beyond me. There is also a surprising amount of Thai men from Scotland. Thats the same country i'm from, i better give my fellow countrymen some money.
Our third day was made up of buses and taxis to our next destination of Cambodia. A country with a glorious yet tainted and horrific past - i can't wait.
Sunday, 27 June 2010
Friday, 18 June 2010
Malaysia
Malaysia, first stop Kuala Lumpur. We arrived shortly after 10pm completely unsure of any bearings or the area we couldn't refuse the 'taxi?' 'where going?' offers. We knew of a few hostels in Little India so we got dropped off right in the middle of it on a street that was supposed to have several. After wandering the street a little we found the hostel we had been looking for, unfortunately it had closed. This turned out to be a blessing in disguise though as the same place was now a new hostel which had been completely refurbished by the new owners who were also offering a new hostel discount making it phenomonal for the price. As it was late we only went on a short walk around our area, the only things of note was the abundance of cockroaches and homeless people. After some food it was time for a well earned sleep.
The next morning we decided to stay organised and head to the train station nice and early to buy our tickets for our next stop Butterworth. After waiting about half an hour to be served we bound excitedly up to the counter and made our 1st class sleeper cabin request. Sold out. Luckily there were still some seats available in the lowest class so we had to take those.
We spent the rest of the day sampling some more of the city through our eyes and bellies (Nandos has some different menu options here). KL is lots and lots of hustle and bustle. The people are usually a mix of trendy, young, fashion conscience teens rubbing shoulders with people who don't have a Ringgit (less than 1pence) to their name.
In the afternoon we hopped on a bus headed for the Batu Caves. These were fairly spectacular with a huge golden goddess to welcome you to the 500 odd step climb. Once at the top we enjoyed watching wild monkeys descend from the inner cave walls trying to get food from bins and people. The inside of the caves wasn't nearly as impressive as the outside which was nothing short of jaw dropping.
After seeing the city's more familiar sights, the KL Tower and the Petronas Towers, which are surrounded by high class retail outlets; it is clear that this city is the epitamy of dichotomy. It looks as though a few incredible buildings and banks were built in the centre of a large slum making it seem modern and visually stunning however, the city is still surrounded and inhabited largely by very poor people. It wasn't quite enough to look down on the poor people from the street so we felt it necessary to head to the highest point, the top of the KL tower. The views were great as expected and it was nice to be so close but so far away from the busyness.
The day before our train was a long one as we left the hostel around 8am and wouldn't be getting the train until half 11pm. It was spent in the same way; lots of sightseeing.
The 'sleeper' train was ridiculous. How anyone could sleep is beyond me...maybe i should have asked Matt when he woke up. Not only did it continually reek of new and horrendous pish, the power kept going out so it was a mix of pitch blackness and blinding brightness but it also broke down twice and stopped in the middle of nowhere for ages at a time. Finally though just as the sun was rising the driver announced we would soon be arriving in Butterworth. He said this again shortly after as we were approaching a stop so we got our things together ready to jump off. Wrong stop. The driver was a moron. I was able to practice my haggling with a taxi driver to get him to drive us to the correct train station, once there we grabbed a quick ferry ride across to Penang-wicked. We walked quite far to find the 1800's hostel that we were after but when we found it it was closed-for good! Not to worry as we had passed several others on the way up to the one we wanted so we picked one and booked up 2 nights.
Penang island is cool, much of the island is largely touristy with the resorts and beaches being the draw. On our first day we headed to the north of the island to go to a nature park. This was essentially a gigantic trek through the jungle and with 100% humidity it was a killer. We passed through 'monkey beach' which sounded great when we read it on the map but was slightly terrifying as it was in the jungle and the monkeys were following us around in the trees throwing stones at us. Needless to say we hurried along to the actual beach which was spectacular. Being so exhausted we treated oursleves to a boat ride back. This came pretty close to complete euphoria, who needs pills when you have beaches and boats! The rest of our time here was spent exploring and seeing a snake temple, a few shrines, big Buddhas and eating local dishes. As a warning for anyone considering a visit the snake temple is the worst thing in Malaysia.
Next Stop Thailand for Ko Phi Phi.
The next morning we decided to stay organised and head to the train station nice and early to buy our tickets for our next stop Butterworth. After waiting about half an hour to be served we bound excitedly up to the counter and made our 1st class sleeper cabin request. Sold out. Luckily there were still some seats available in the lowest class so we had to take those.
We spent the rest of the day sampling some more of the city through our eyes and bellies (Nandos has some different menu options here). KL is lots and lots of hustle and bustle. The people are usually a mix of trendy, young, fashion conscience teens rubbing shoulders with people who don't have a Ringgit (less than 1pence) to their name.
In the afternoon we hopped on a bus headed for the Batu Caves. These were fairly spectacular with a huge golden goddess to welcome you to the 500 odd step climb. Once at the top we enjoyed watching wild monkeys descend from the inner cave walls trying to get food from bins and people. The inside of the caves wasn't nearly as impressive as the outside which was nothing short of jaw dropping.
After seeing the city's more familiar sights, the KL Tower and the Petronas Towers, which are surrounded by high class retail outlets; it is clear that this city is the epitamy of dichotomy. It looks as though a few incredible buildings and banks were built in the centre of a large slum making it seem modern and visually stunning however, the city is still surrounded and inhabited largely by very poor people. It wasn't quite enough to look down on the poor people from the street so we felt it necessary to head to the highest point, the top of the KL tower. The views were great as expected and it was nice to be so close but so far away from the busyness.
The day before our train was a long one as we left the hostel around 8am and wouldn't be getting the train until half 11pm. It was spent in the same way; lots of sightseeing.
The 'sleeper' train was ridiculous. How anyone could sleep is beyond me...maybe i should have asked Matt when he woke up. Not only did it continually reek of new and horrendous pish, the power kept going out so it was a mix of pitch blackness and blinding brightness but it also broke down twice and stopped in the middle of nowhere for ages at a time. Finally though just as the sun was rising the driver announced we would soon be arriving in Butterworth. He said this again shortly after as we were approaching a stop so we got our things together ready to jump off. Wrong stop. The driver was a moron. I was able to practice my haggling with a taxi driver to get him to drive us to the correct train station, once there we grabbed a quick ferry ride across to Penang-wicked. We walked quite far to find the 1800's hostel that we were after but when we found it it was closed-for good! Not to worry as we had passed several others on the way up to the one we wanted so we picked one and booked up 2 nights.
Penang island is cool, much of the island is largely touristy with the resorts and beaches being the draw. On our first day we headed to the north of the island to go to a nature park. This was essentially a gigantic trek through the jungle and with 100% humidity it was a killer. We passed through 'monkey beach' which sounded great when we read it on the map but was slightly terrifying as it was in the jungle and the monkeys were following us around in the trees throwing stones at us. Needless to say we hurried along to the actual beach which was spectacular. Being so exhausted we treated oursleves to a boat ride back. This came pretty close to complete euphoria, who needs pills when you have beaches and boats! The rest of our time here was spent exploring and seeing a snake temple, a few shrines, big Buddhas and eating local dishes. As a warning for anyone considering a visit the snake temple is the worst thing in Malaysia.
Next Stop Thailand for Ko Phi Phi.
Saturday, 12 June 2010
Touchdown In The Land Of The Lion
'Singapura' aka The Lion City.
Singapore doesn't have any early history records really. Originally it was a basic sea town that acted as a go between for its bigger neighbours: Sumatra and Melaka. According to Malay legend, a Sumatran prince spotted a lion while visiting the island of Temasek. On this good omen he founded a city where he saw the lion (Singapura).
On the initial flight to Dubai I had the joyous luck of sitting next to a fat, full blown alcoholic who not only took up most of my seat as well as his own, but also reeked of booze (it was 14:15). Nevertheless, despite ordering a further 6 vodkas he was completely harmless, however, the 3 lager louts who were so loud they should have been arrested sitting a few rows in front of us were not harmless to my ears.
Dubai airport was phenomonally large and bustling considering it was after midnight when we arrived. As the airport acts as a midway point for multiple destinations, not to mention being one of the largest in the world, there was a great mix of people from all around the globe. Naturally with my final destination on my mind I started to get giddy at the sight of groups of Asian people knowing that for the next 3 months I would be accepting many of them as my brethren. As quickly as we arrived in Dubai we were leaving again on another 7 hour flight, this time destined for the Lion City itself. The plane wasn't as fancy as the previous one, but it had all the functions, gadgets and private screens a passenger could ever need or want.
No sleep and questionable airplane food got old quickly, especially with deep in sleep passengers all around me, however, 'Lost In Translation' 'The Men Who Stare At Goats' 'Invictus' 'Family Guy' and Jimi Hendrix aided the time passing.
Eventually we touched down - Singapore at long last, we breezed through customs, our bags were collected in under 1 minute, we quickly found and made a break for the exit and just before breathing something other than plane air we were pulled aside for a 'random' full bag security check (thanks Matt's beard). The taxi journey to the hotel was grand, not much to see and not much energy to open my eyes. I was also not hesitant to arrive at a bed so had no qualms with the drivers 110kph average speed on a 70kph.
The hotel was pleasant enough, the street walkers that surrounded looked to be worth a hard earned 50pence or around 1 Singapore Dollar, it was though, clean and amenity friendly featuring its very own 'Shar' television.
A walk around downtown and the sinking of a '40' lager confirms that I like Singapore. The choice of foodstuffs and range of restaurants and stalls is extrordinary, although it does beg the question if any of these business owners know about competition after seeing 5-6 Chinese restaurants next to each other.
After some tasty chicken (including head) and rice we decided to retire to bed. Being awake for 30 hours i was fairly tired and drifted into a coma fairly fast. Alas this was not to last as we were both wide awake watching baseball at 2am Singapore time.
'Zoo Day'
The Singapore zoo had my greatest expectations due in part to it being the biggest zoo in the world and the only one to feature a night safari for nocturnal animals. It was mainly due to Matt's boysih excitement that my expectations rose so high...and it did not disappoint. This is easily Singapores biggest pull as a tourist destination because of the range of animals, the space it covers, layout and man made beauty. Also included are several animal shows which usually turn me off as it always seems like the animal has been a little too forced to participate but with the few we saw the strong bond between the animals and the trainers made them highly enjoyable.
To top this day off was the night. We walked around the additional section of the zoo firstly which due to the lack of cages for the majority of animals felt like a walk through the jungle. Next was a 40 minute tram journey around the rest of the park. This was a little too serene and relaxing, causing us both to catch up with some brief napping.
Our train the next day was fully booked but we managed to get a 'luxury' bus from 'Konsortium' for the same price. The bus journey was good as the part of the bus that was luxurious was the seats (I am currently writing this with my body almost entirely horizontal). It was delayed by an hour and a half, with check in time we were waiting outside for 3 hours and after hitting some rain in Malaysia the windows leaked into the bus and also the luggage compartment turned into a swimming pool.
I will hopefully arrive in Kuala Lumpur later tonight and am looking forward to some more jungle, less city and less english, or should i say 'Engrish'?
Singapore doesn't have any early history records really. Originally it was a basic sea town that acted as a go between for its bigger neighbours: Sumatra and Melaka. According to Malay legend, a Sumatran prince spotted a lion while visiting the island of Temasek. On this good omen he founded a city where he saw the lion (Singapura).
On the initial flight to Dubai I had the joyous luck of sitting next to a fat, full blown alcoholic who not only took up most of my seat as well as his own, but also reeked of booze (it was 14:15). Nevertheless, despite ordering a further 6 vodkas he was completely harmless, however, the 3 lager louts who were so loud they should have been arrested sitting a few rows in front of us were not harmless to my ears.
Dubai airport was phenomonally large and bustling considering it was after midnight when we arrived. As the airport acts as a midway point for multiple destinations, not to mention being one of the largest in the world, there was a great mix of people from all around the globe. Naturally with my final destination on my mind I started to get giddy at the sight of groups of Asian people knowing that for the next 3 months I would be accepting many of them as my brethren. As quickly as we arrived in Dubai we were leaving again on another 7 hour flight, this time destined for the Lion City itself. The plane wasn't as fancy as the previous one, but it had all the functions, gadgets and private screens a passenger could ever need or want.
No sleep and questionable airplane food got old quickly, especially with deep in sleep passengers all around me, however, 'Lost In Translation' 'The Men Who Stare At Goats' 'Invictus' 'Family Guy' and Jimi Hendrix aided the time passing.
Eventually we touched down - Singapore at long last, we breezed through customs, our bags were collected in under 1 minute, we quickly found and made a break for the exit and just before breathing something other than plane air we were pulled aside for a 'random' full bag security check (thanks Matt's beard). The taxi journey to the hotel was grand, not much to see and not much energy to open my eyes. I was also not hesitant to arrive at a bed so had no qualms with the drivers 110kph average speed on a 70kph.
The hotel was pleasant enough, the street walkers that surrounded looked to be worth a hard earned 50pence or around 1 Singapore Dollar, it was though, clean and amenity friendly featuring its very own 'Shar' television.
A walk around downtown and the sinking of a '40' lager confirms that I like Singapore. The choice of foodstuffs and range of restaurants and stalls is extrordinary, although it does beg the question if any of these business owners know about competition after seeing 5-6 Chinese restaurants next to each other.
After some tasty chicken (including head) and rice we decided to retire to bed. Being awake for 30 hours i was fairly tired and drifted into a coma fairly fast. Alas this was not to last as we were both wide awake watching baseball at 2am Singapore time.
'Zoo Day'
The Singapore zoo had my greatest expectations due in part to it being the biggest zoo in the world and the only one to feature a night safari for nocturnal animals. It was mainly due to Matt's boysih excitement that my expectations rose so high...and it did not disappoint. This is easily Singapores biggest pull as a tourist destination because of the range of animals, the space it covers, layout and man made beauty. Also included are several animal shows which usually turn me off as it always seems like the animal has been a little too forced to participate but with the few we saw the strong bond between the animals and the trainers made them highly enjoyable.
To top this day off was the night. We walked around the additional section of the zoo firstly which due to the lack of cages for the majority of animals felt like a walk through the jungle. Next was a 40 minute tram journey around the rest of the park. This was a little too serene and relaxing, causing us both to catch up with some brief napping.
Our train the next day was fully booked but we managed to get a 'luxury' bus from 'Konsortium' for the same price. The bus journey was good as the part of the bus that was luxurious was the seats (I am currently writing this with my body almost entirely horizontal). It was delayed by an hour and a half, with check in time we were waiting outside for 3 hours and after hitting some rain in Malaysia the windows leaked into the bus and also the luggage compartment turned into a swimming pool.
I will hopefully arrive in Kuala Lumpur later tonight and am looking forward to some more jungle, less city and less english, or should i say 'Engrish'?
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